Angkor, as well as being the bang-average national beer of Cambodia, was the capital city of the Khmer empire from the 9th to the 15th century. Today, it stands as an enormous complex of over 1000 temples which range from completely ruined to partially preserved and painstakingly restored. The expansive individual temple complexes were carved out of stone and many of the stones themselves contain carvings of people or text. The city was built with these imposing edifices at its core but the city’s other buildings were made from perishable materials because only the gods had the right to residences made of stone. From research conducted in 2007, it is believed that Angkor was the largest preindustrial city in the world with an urban sprawl of over 1000km2 and a population possibly up to one million. This wonder of the ancient world was facilitated by a vast network of infrastructure such as elaborate water management systems which dispersed and stored water to account for the changeable seasons in Cambodia. 

We knew that we had to see Angkor Wat, not only the largest temple complex in Angkor but the largest religious monument in the world, but we also planned on seeing as many other temples as we could on our one day pass. So, we got a rickshaw for the day and sped off. In the coming photos, hopefully you can garner some understanding of the variety and intricacies of the complexes we explored. 

The gate to the grounds of our first temple
Shrine at Angkor
A still functioning shrine, sometimes visited by orange robed monks
Tropical rain Angkor temple
Hiding under a tree as the torrential tropical rain hits
tree roots angkor
Tree roots Angkor
It was a spicy day
Sandstone temples Angkor
A different era of temple showcasing different building materials and designs
A faceless lion
Angkor sandstone temples
Angkor temple
temple silhouette Angkor
Angkor wat tree in temple
Nature thought it could make a more beautiful gate
Exploring temples
Indiana Groans
Exploring temples
Lara Soft
Temple at Angkor
A temple in a man made lake inside another lake
Incense Angkor
Collapsed corridor Angkor
Exploring Angkor city
Got that even leg tan
Corridor Angkor
Worryingly close to my head
Angkor city gate
Gate to Angkor Thom and Bayon
Bayon temple Angkor
Bayon temple featuring lots of smiling faces built 800 years ago
Bayon temple
Angkor wat people
Deep inside the Angkor Wat complex yet still a country mile from the central temple
Angkor wat people
Looking back towards the entrance
One of many courtyards
Monkey Angkor Wat
One of many vicious monkeys
Water Lilies Angkor Wat
My favourite photo of the entire day. We had just been to one of the most revered monuments in the world and the sun was setting as helpless Chinese tourists were chased by hordes of screeching bloodthirsty monkeys. The serenity was palpable. We walked back across the large square moat enclosing the Angkor Wat complex and there among the lillypads, sat a packet of unopened strawberry jam. It was sat there like it was the most natural thing in the world. Everyone else walked by not noticing the sheer nonchalance of this popular spread. I hope its still there, throwing a spanner in the works, catching the most observant tourist by surprise. Makes you think, what next eh?? Marmalade at the Great Pyramid? Christ the Redeemer holding a jar of Bovril? All I know is the audacity of this jam to lounge itself out at the entrance to Angkor Wat was the biggest middle finger to expectation, to society, to the universe itself that I’ve ever seen. Be like this jam, defy expectation, forge your own destiny.

Final thoughts

While it is one of the most popular tourist sites in the world, within the majority of the larger Angkor complex, you don’t feel it’s notoriety. Instead of my usual human-avoiding preoccupation, my attention was fully engaged by the partially derelict temples. These edifices of such solidity and intricacy were enthralling in their sprawling scale and unrestored authenticity. The centuries of slow degradation by the unceasing march of nature had both strangled and saved Angkor. The burly roots of the trees seem to hold together many of the walls, binding the ancient building to the Earth but they also elevated Angkor to something more. The once impenetrable stone corridors, that have wallowed in solemn acceptance of their centuries of twilight, are now sporadically flooded with shafts of dusty sunlight. Nature’s persistence may have broken down man-made forms but now it repaid us by highlighting details that had been lost in the gloom for generations. It was in these rubble strewn recesses, where we could immerse every sense in the character of the temple, where we felt most in awe. However, Angkor Wat and Bayon temple were another story. Absolutely packed with people, the buildings were undoubtedly more grand and imposing, but the sense of adventure that the others instilled in us was gone, we were walking in a museum rather than in history.

Walking around the temples of Angkor is without a doubt one of the most incredible experiences of my life. The immersive, unrestricted and unpolished beauty of site really emphasised its fascinating history and its continuing religious significance to me. In fact, I wish more countries of the world kept their ancient sites like this. With a basis of some key information, trust us to feel what we are supposed to feel. Connect with the history of the place on a personal level. Touch, smell, sight, sounds and (maybe not) taste should not be shirked, they should not be overtaken by flashy gimmicks. Leave me with a ruin over a reconstruction any day.

14 Comments on “Angkor”

  1. Phenomenal place. … loved the variety of the temples. I especially liked the photo where you said the environment thought it could make a better entrance. It reminds us that regardless of our grand ambitions, we are always at the mercy of our environment.

  2. Angkor an amazing place having been there Summer/ 2000 (my fave was East Mebon) but methinks Pollonaruwa Sri Lanka more profound a place…it certainly rocked me for sure…nice write up…G x

    • Another place to add to my list of future destinations! Stay tuned for more temples in Thailand and eventually some Wonder of the World action πŸ˜ƒ

  3. Lovely post, James, it sounds like an amazing place – those rocks and carvings have seen so much and now so accepting of their gentle crumble. Thank you
    Naomi

  4. Really cool blog James! You should visit India. You’ll love the temples, culture and food!

    (ps i studied geology at rhul too i was in the year below you lol)

    • Thanks Nisha! Yeah it’s definitely on the list, there’s too many places to go 😬 really?? What a small world, how did you even find this strange little part of the internet?

      • Oh you came up on my friends recommended on fb and then I clicked on your web link and then I couldn’t stop reading your awesome blog haha. Promise I’m not a creep πŸ™‚

        • Haha really πŸ˜† glad you enjoyed it anyway! I’m very intrigued how your uni geology experience was but stay tuned for more horribly self depricating blogs mainly about the little known kingdom of Jordan

          • Yea i’d love to hear about your geology experience too. And your blogs aren’t self deprecating. In fact, quite the opposite. You show that the best travel routes are the non touristy stuff which is pretty cool.

          • I’m not sure that I meant self depricating but when you reply to comments while drunk it’s almost impossible to tell… Happy to know you enjoyed them though 😊

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